Reims
Reims (pronounced “rances”) is the largest city in the champagne region and the site of the cathedral where some 29 French kings were coronated between 1027 and 1825. Legend says the city was founded 2,000 years ago by Remus, brother of Romulus the founder of Rome.
Cathedral of Notre Dame
A church has been on this site since 314, and the cathedral is one of Reims’ most important buildings. Legend says this is where Clovis, king of the Franks, was baptized in 498 by St Remi. Legend says that a dove sent by God brought St. Remi a vial of oil to anoint Clovis, thereby creating a bond between the king and God. The vial was stored in a Holy Ampulla, and used for future coronations – thereby making Reims the desired place for coronations, allowing the king to claim that he rules by Divine Right.
Champagne Houses
We tour Veuve Clicquot, the house perhaps most familiar to Americans. It consists of 30 minutes in the chalk cellars describing (poorly) the process of making champagne and the history of the house, and 30 minutes tasting two rose’s (vintage and non-vintage). Then we were unceremoniously asked to leave the tasting room to see the sales room. We have never before been kicked out of a tasting before being done – until today. Rude. Better to buy a bottle or two and enjoy them on your own schedule than be subject to this commercialism.
We also had a reservation at Taittinger. However when we arrived at their cellars (which are advertised as amazing, holding 3 million bottles) we find that the tasting is held at another location which we can’t find.
Our discovery prize, though, is Martel, just two blocks from our gite. It is a smallish location but the service is very good. We enter and declare that we want to buy a few bottles. The helpful young clerk carefully describes his wines in detail and pours us tastings. We find a rose and a meunier-based champagne that are delightful.
To Be Continued . . .
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